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Double Dyeing Devores


With these instructions you can achieve beautiful effects on devore scarves. As the acid dye takes best to the silk background and the procion dye dyes the viscose well, you can make two-tone effects that can be either tonal or contrasting, depending on the colour of dyes you use. Bear in mind that both dyes will affect the colour of each colour eg a grey acid dye and a blue procion dye will produce a blueish-grey background and a greyish-blue pile. I have found it best to work with a darker colour acid dye and a paler colour procion dye. If you use a deep procion dye on a light silk it will particularly affect the colour of the background. These are some of my favourite combinations -

Burgundy Acid Dye with Bronze Procion Dye
Gun Metal Acid Dye with Cerulean Blue Procion Dye
Teal Acid Dye with Midnight Blue Procion Dye
Vermilion Acid Dye with Fuschia Procion Dye

The technique is very simple - the procion dyes are cold water dyes that fix with soda ash or washing soda and the acid dyes are hot water dyes that need vinegar to fix them. The dyeing can be carried out in either order. The amounts given are for about 100g of fabric - you can dye several pieces at a time by simply increasing the amounts used. You can achieve pale colours by using less dye. Using these dyes is not an exact science - as long as you put put in enough of everything I have never found that there is a problem.

You will need: Viscose/silk devored scarf or fabric

One acid dye One procion dye
Soda Ash/
Washing Soda
White Vinegar
Household Salt Bucket
Saucepan Large Spoon for stirring
Jam Jar for mixing Teaspoon for measuring
Synthrapol (optional)

Take care when handling dyes and chemicals. Use rubber gloves. Work in a well ventilated area. Do not breathe powders. Do not use implements for food preparation. Using the Procion Dye: dampen the devore in warm water. If you that there might be a finishing in the fabric, wash with a detergent such as Synthrapol. First mix 125ml salt with 1 litre of hot water, and leave until slightly warm. Then mix 3 heaped tablespoons of Soda Ash in 1 litre of hot water (this provides the fixative).

Mix 1 teaspoon of procion dye with a little water, and add to the salt water. Pour the salt and dye mixture into a bucket with 2 litres of cold water or enough to let the devore move freely. Then put the devore into the bucket. Leave for about ten minutes, stirring every few minutes and then add the soda ash mixture. Stir every few minutes for the next twenty minutes, and then every so often for another half hour.

Remove devore from the dye bath and rinse in cold water.

Using the Acid Dye: fill the saucepan with enough water to amply cover the fabric, so that it can move freely, and start to heat it. Add a teaspoon of acid dye and stir, then add the devore. Bring to a slow boil, and add 60ml of white vinegar. Stir every so often for half an hour, keeping a low simmer. Remove the devore.

Finishing the Devore: rinse the devore very well - if you like you can use Synthrapol (an industrial strength detergent) which will remove any excess dye. It is to be expected that quite a lot of dye will come out during the rinse. Fabric conditioner is optional - it can help to make the devore even softer. Leave the devore to dry and then iron on the reverse using a steam iron. It is now ready to be admired.

This is the simplest technique for double dyeing. For a more varied effect, you can space dye the fabric with several colours of procion dye, or use the procion dyes mixed with chemical water as heat fix paints. The acid dyes, or steam fix silk dyes, can also be painted on and steam fixed. Extra effects can also be made by discharging on top of the fabric, or using metallic paints such as Jacquard Lumiere for subtle sparkle.